I’ll never host my own crafting show for two reasons: (1) my perkiness only extends to calculus lectures and (2) my crafty work pattern seems to go much like a trainwreck–there are long moments of chugging along smoothly punctuated with catastrophic stupid messes and failures. And so this is why I wrapped my kitchen in plastic drop cloths before starting to dye with indigo a couple of Saturdays ago. Really, it looked like one of Dexter’s “kill rooms.” And it seemed like there’d be no chance for even me to get blue in the wrong places. Yeah, right.
Anyway here’s how it all went. I apologize for the lack of photos of the process. I was working alone and I really didn’t want to smurf my cameras. I did manage to sneak in a shot or two.
Indigo is notoriously finicky. You have to reduce the dyestuff and carefully keep oxygen out of your dyepot. For this first attempt, I used pre-reduced indigo along with soda ash and thiourea dioxide using a recipe from Dharma Trading. It seems like one could get started more quickly using this indigo dye kit. Next time I’ll start with pure indigo and reduce for myself…but that’s for another day.
I ended up mixing two dyepots, one on Saturday and one on Sunday morning because the first one exhausted quickly. My crucial mistakes were using water that was too hot and agitating the dyepot too much, causing the indigo to oxidize in the bucket. You know, I was concerned mid-dyeing because the tell-tale indigo fart aroma was quite mild the whole time. In fact, I knew the second dyepot was going to be a big success because I thought I just might die from the stench.
While the dyepot rested, I soaked various fabrics (Osnaburg, flour sacking, muslin, a print) and some wool in warm water. Most of the fabrics I just dyed as yardage, but some I tied and some I applied resists to. You can see some fabric tied with wood blocks below.
Dip your wet base fibers into the dyepot and it should come out a bright yellowish green. And then hang the piece up to oxidize for a while. The oxygen is what turns the dye into that classic indigo blue. Here’s how it looks on muslin.
Instead of dipping in the dye for longer periods of time to achieve darker tones of blue, you have to oxidize and re-dip to layer color on top of color. Here are the results of dipping different numbers of times.
On Osnaburg:
On flour sacking:
As with all dyes, you can also experiment with different resist techniques to create patterns of dyed and un-dyed areas. I tried two different resists: tying and itajime with acrylic resists.
I have long admired the kinds of designs one can produce using these acrylics. You use some big clamps and different shapes, dip-dyeing as usual. I got my resists and clamps from r0ssie.
The resists create quite crisp designs. But I need to practice getting the clamps on right and soaking the fabric in water enough before dyeing. And then I need to get the dye saturated in the layers better.
After dipping and re-dipping, you let the fabrics oxidize a while more and then rinse. Lots of the residual dye comes out in this rinse, but a warm wash with detergent is required to reveal the true color. All of my fabrics were a deep dark blue before rinse-and-wash and I couldn’t have predicted which would be light, medium or dark other than by knowing which had been double- or triple-dipped.
In the end, I wanted the stench of the dyepot out of my house and so I started dyeing random things to exhaust more quickly. The wool was simple and drank up the dye quickly. I double-dipped these.
And I had varying success with dyeing on non-white bases and prints. All of these are single-dipped because I wanted the prints/colors to come through the blue.
At the end of the day, indigo dyeing is a long, labor-intensive process that would go better if you do it with a partner and do it outdoors to vent the odor. I wore long pants, long sleeves, closed-toe leather shoes, used strong gloves, and wore a respirator to protect myself. And I still ended up with a bit of blue on my face. Luckily I washed it off before any major irritation began. Errant blue spatters in the kitchen cleaned up easily with soap and a sponge. [I discarded the sponge once I finished cleaning in order to avoid cross-contamination of food.]
Next? I got myself a batik kit from Dharma Trading and plan to explore my copy of Color Your Cloth in greater depth.
Have a great week!















I love how dying with indigo is so much like chemistry lab.
Great job, Cauchy Smurf!
Sounds fun, the results look great! I’m still trying to decide if I want to indigo before it gets cold. There is no way I should be doing it in my kitchen, haha, I don’t trust myself!
Can’t wait to see your adventures in batiking! It is SO fun! I can’t wait to do it again!
Love all that blue (which surprises me). :)
“indigo fart aroma”. snort!! Great post. I’ve never tried indigo dyeing, though I do love indigo fabric, not sure I’ll try it now, it sounds pretty involved.
beautiful results, but eeeek. so it sounds like you didn’t actually get permanent blue all over the kitchen which is what I was expecting from the intro. whew! hmm, think you’ve talked me out of doing this anytime soon!
Thanks for sharing your indigo adventures! I’ve only dyed once, and I used kool-aid. I’ve long wanted to try natural dyeing. I love the triangle fabric, and the yarn is such a fabulous blue. BTW, you really paint a picture of the indigo smell. ;)
If I lived closer to you I would have been there is a second to help out! I have ALWAYS wanted to dye with indigo, especially after seeing the wonderful cotton jersey over at Alabama Chanin. I think I will order a kit and see if I have have a bit of your success. Thanks for the links!
really neat! thanks for the insight into your dye process. I had no idea you got indigo from oxidation.
So pretty!
You’ve been busy! Sounds like such a fun experiment. I always chicken out of dyeing- the combination of the mess, the smell and the variables are too much. I applaud your results- I especially love the prints!
Wow!!!!
Oooh, those turned out wonderful. Brave you. My kitchen would become a disaster area within three seconds of trying, even if I shrink wrapped every damn thing in there.
This is fascinating! Thank you!
Awesome! Can you believe I was lucky enough to take a fibers class in high school? We kept an indigo vat going for a few weeks by having a daily stir-rotation among all the students. We also handpainted silk, felted wool booties right onto our feet, and learned shibori. No wonder I grew up to be fabric obsessed!
That is an awesome experience. I went to a pretty creative school, but we never got THAT into it!
i have a friend who does quite a bit of indigo dyeing. definitely a labor intensive process as you’ve discovered. think you’ll immerse yourself more in this? or was it something you just wanted to try? regardless, looking forward to seeing what you do if you pursue this more as well as hearing/seeing your adventures in batiking!
So beautiful! I didn’t know about the fart smell — aware, though, that there can be some weird odors with dyestuffs. I finally — after 25 years — picked up and harvested some of the black walnuts from our tree in the backyard (as opposed to picking them up and pitching them down the hill), and even brewed a pot of dye! Fun times. ; )
i am so glad that fart was in your kitchen and not mine… LOVE the blue though, it is beautiful! it is also waaaayyy too complicated for me. you lost me at dye pot and soda ash…
Smurfy! I just got my dye kit in the mail and now I can’t wait to try it. So, did the first pot exhaust quickly because of the oxidation or was it something else? Thanks for the details–I especially love the pictures of the different shades of fabric.
they are beautiful.
love hand dyeds….can’t imagine throwing two kids in the mix…plus with trying to sell the house i can’t imagine explaining any more of an outrageous paint job than the one we already have.
these are great
I have often thought about doing some dying. Every time I get even a little serious about it I think about the fact that I already have more projects in my head than I will ever make and more pop up every day. So, I resist ordering any dying supplies.
Your results are beautiful. I especially like the change in the butterfly fabric!
Particularly love what the dye did to the bottom patterned fabric, it looks much better now.
Magic! I feel validated that my favourite colour is blue!
Gorgeous. Now I really want to try it. I do most of my dyeing on the carport. It works out really since the kitchen opens on to it. Learned the hard way about protecting things when I first started but all of the stains on the white cabinet weren’t washfast and they eventually disappeared.
Wow. I love the results – especially the yarn and the fabric with the teensy floral print – but your description of the process made me hyperventilate a little. I might just need to take a hit of Rescue Remedy. I’m glad you lived through it – I admire your courage. Enjoy the fruits of your labor!
I have an indigo dye kit and it’s been on my mind to use it. What you’ve done is truly inspirational, especially the itajime. When you make your return trip to SF, I’ll have to see if we can make a studio visit to Ocelot, they make the most beautiful resist dyed clothing.
I keep wanting to try indigo dying, but definitely don’t want to Dexterize my house. I’d rather use someone else’s kill room. Actually, there’s a guy here that gives classes and I need to get off my butt and take one. I’d be curious to see what happens when you add resists between dips.
This is really cool. Like I want to try it today but only if I had the house to myself (too many kids running around makes me nervous). Maybe I’ll stick to dyeing with fruits and veggies ’til the kids move out. Where do you get the fabric with the raw edging? — you know, for the amateur food photographer in me :)
you did amazing!! Just love all those blues…
(not to mention how brave you were to do it in the kitchen..)
Wow! You’re just a busy little bee!
Wonderful results- thank you for sharing!